Many thanks to Claiborne Young for contributing to our website. If you would like more information about his Cruising Guide Series, or wish to order any of his works, click here. |
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Many thanks to Claiborne Young for contributing to our website. If you would like more information about his Cruising Guide Series, or wish to order any of his works, click here. |
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Since this guide's original publication, the community of Manteo has undergone more changes than any other municipality in coastal North Carolina. Cruising boaters who have not visited this vibrant town within the last eight years will hardly recognize the waterfront or the downtown district. A huge condo/retail complex now overlooks the Manteo waterfront, rubbing shoulders with a deluxe three-story inn. The city docks have been completely rebuilt. Interesting shops, restaurants, and shoreside businesses of all descriptions, housed in new classical-style buildings, eagerly await the visiting cruiser. A bridge now stretches across Doughs Creek to a new park on Ice Plant Island, where the Elizabeth II calmly guards the creek's waters. What is really so striking about all this change, however, is the careful management of the development. All of the new construction has been painstakingly designed to harmonize with the town's unique architectural character. The result has been an unequivocal success, with cruisers profiting immensely. Manteo is served by a reliable channel that leads from the principal Roanoke Sound passage through Shallowbag Bay to the town waterfront. This cut carries minimum depths of 7 feet, with soundings of 8 to 10 feet the norm. The old city docks near the municipal water plant are no longer in use, though you will still spy the unused piers to port as you enter Doughs Creek. Manteo Facilities The Manteo town docks gaze proudly over the southwestern shores of Doughs Creek northwest of unlighted daybeacon #6. This first-rate municipal facility, now leased to a private management firm, is known as Manteo Waterfront Marina. The dockmaster here is very responsive to the needs of visiting cruisers. I recommend this marina highly! Manteo Waterfront Marina features numerous transient berths at the latest wooden fixed-pier construction. Impressive dockside soundings of 8 to 10 feet are enough for even long-legged vessels. As you would expect, all power and water connections are found dockside. The marina features ultraclean showers and a complete laundromat. Gasoline and diesel fuel can sometimes be delivered by way of fuel trucks, but no dockside fuel pumps are available. Waste pump-out service can be arranged through a local sewage contractor. Marina patrons will now find a ship's and variety store in the dockmaster's office complex; this store offers NOAA charts. Mechanical repairs can be arranged through independent technicians. The nearest grocery store, Food-A-Rama (252-473-2924), is approximately 0.25 mile from the marina piers. The local post office has been moved recently from its former downtown location to a spot near the grocery market. Many find it a pleasant walk to these facilities, but if you are not up to this hike, the dockmaster can usually help with courtesy transportation or car rentals. A host of restaurants and other shoreside businesses (see below) is within a few steps of the dockage complex. The amenities at Manteo Waterfront Marina are complemented by colorful landscaping set against idyllic Doughs Creek. Seldom will visiting cruisers find such an attractive spot to coil the lines and rest from their travels. A prominent gazebo pier just southeast of the principal slips can be used as a lunch stop or simply as a great place to watch the evening light fade from the waters. Salty Dawg Marina is located at the foot of the Shallowbag Bay entrance channel just before it turns northwest into Doughs Creek southwest of unlighted daybeacon #6. This fine facility offers extensive dockage at two sets of piers. The outer docks overlook Shallowbag Bay and are composed of typical fixed wooden piers. The inner, more sheltered slips feature wooden pilings and tiny finger piers set against a concrete sea wall. Salty Dawg's entrance channel has minimum 6-foot depths, with 6 to 12 feet of water at the slips. All berths have full power and water hookups. The older piers of the inner harbor provide excellent shelter, while the outer docks might get a little bumpy in strong northeasterly or southeasterly blows. Gasoline and diesel fuel are readily available, as are mechanical repairs for gasoline engines. The marina can contract for diesel repairs through an independent mechanic. Waste pump-out can be arranged through a local sewage contractor. A proud, new shower building now graces the Salty Dawg, where you will also find a well-stocked ship's store that offers NOAA charts. Salty Dawg features a large, metal dry-stack storage building for small power craft. The Food-A-Rama supermarket is located just across U.S. 64 from the marina's shoreside entrance. Retail shops, restaurants, and a laundromat are only a short step away. It's a brisk walk of less than a mile to the historic downtown district. If you opt for automobile transportation, the marina has a courtesy car for visitors, or car rentals can be arranged. All in all, Salty Dawg is a nice alternative to the Manteo waterfront docks. Boaters should also know that Salty Dawg's owner, Harry Schiffman, was instrumental in short-circuiting a state program to charge a leasehold fee for the bottom land over which North Carolina's marina docks are located. A useful compromise was worked out that has saved Tar Heel boaters a wad of money in the increased dockage fees that would have resulted from the ill-starred program. Please join me in congratulating Harry on a job well done. Roanoke Island Attractions, Restaurants, and Lodgings Boaters entering Doughs Creek will immediately be struck by the huge, three-story condo/retail/dining complex known as "The Waterfront." This unusual structure has resident parking on the ground floor, a host of retail shops and two restaurants of note on the middle level, and private condos on the top floor. It is a genuine pleasure to frequent this attractive complex. Famished cruisers will want to make the acquaintance of Clara's Seafood Grill (252-473-1727) on The Waterfront's second level. This striking restaurant has large glass windows as well as outside dining overlooking Doughs Creek and Shallowbag Bay. The seafood is excellent (give the curried scallops a try), and the desserts are not bad either. Clara's is a great spot to unwind after a long day on the water. You might try the Full Moon Caf (252-473-6666), also located in The Waterfront. This informal dining spot offers good sandwiches. Separated from The Waterfront by another complex of retail shops, the three-story Tranquil House Inn (252-473-2188) proudly overlooks the northerly stretch of Doughs Creek. This inn has been constructed to resemble the down-east architecture of an earlier day. The architects have succeeded admirably. Inside, visitors will be struck by the gracious manner of the inn's personnel and the high-gloss wooden floors. The inn's third-story suites boast a view that must be experienced to be understood. While the accommodations are not the most inexpensive, cruisers who want to take a break from the live-aboard life are encouraged to call ahead for reservations at this most distinctive inn. Recently, the Tranquil House Inn expanded its appeal by opening its own, in-house dining establishment, known as the 1587 Restaurant (252-473-1587). The food can only be described as "high gourmet" and the atmosphere as most attractive. While one could never call the prices budget-minded, you get what you pay for. You might want to dig out your last clean shirt-you know, the one buried under the forward V-berth-for a dinner at 1587. The White Doe Inn (319 Sir Walter Raleigh Street, 800-473-6091 or 252-473-9851) is accessible via a quick walk from Manteo Waterfront Marina. It's a bit farther from Salty Dawg, but the friendly innkeepers will be glad to provide complimentary transportation. The White Doe is housed in a historic 1896 structure which was expanded to its present dimensions during the early part of this century. To this writer's eyes, it is one of the most striking Victorian homes in Manteo. A full breakfast is served (to guests only) every morning. Just across Doughs Creek from the Manteo waterfront, the Elizabeth II State Historic Site on Ice Plant Island is well worth your attention. This fascinating exhibit's star attraction is, of course, the Elizabeth II, a faithful replica of one of the ships that brought the Lost Colonists to the shores of Roanoke Island. The Elizabeth II was painstakingly built by hand on the Manteo waterfront as part of the celebration of the 400th anniversary of Sir Walter Raleigh's colonies. Only traditional methods and materials were used in its construction. The opportunity to visit this remarkable replica is a chance you will not want to miss. Costumed attendants interpret the ship and its functions for visitors and add greatly to the feeling of being transported to the 17th century. Most of the time, you need only walk across the short bridge spanning Doughs Creek to visit the Elizabeth II. Occasionally, the ship is away on cruises to other North Carolina ports of call. Another attraction at the Elizabeth II park is the Outer Banks History Center. Thanks to the efforts of noted area historian David Stick and other local volunteers, visitors interested in the rich heritage of the Outer Banks will find a wealth of information at this unusual facility. According to the center's first director, Wynne Dough, as reported in Outer Banks Current, "The purpose of the Outer Banks History Center is to preserve the cultural and human heritage of the North Carolina coast and to encourage the public to become more interested in it." As this guide went to press, ground had already been broken on Ice Plant Island for the $10 million Outer Banks Cultural Heritage Center. When complete, this new attraction will add immensely to Manteo's offerings. I am sorry to report that one longtime downtown Manteo tradition, The Duchess of Dare Restaurant, is no more. The restaurant has changed hands several times recently. It is currently known as The Two Sisters. Downtown Manteo teems with all types of retail enterprises including ice-cream shops, gift shops, and a movie theater. Take plenty of time to stroll the downtown streets and sample all the attractions. If you are interested in things literary, be sure to check out Manteo Booksellers (105 Sir Walter Raleigh Street, 252-473-1221), located just behind The Waterfront shopping complex. This is simply one of the nicest and best-stocked independent bookstores this writer has ever come across. Manteo is an ideal base for exploration of those parts of the Outer Banks not readily accessible from the water. Rental cars are available from several local firms which offer dockside pickup and delivery. Call Barry's Automotive at 252-473-6111 or Arty Sawyer at 252-473-2141. Ask the dockmaster at Manteo Waterfront Marina or Salty Dawg for assistance. These rental vehicles can be used to visit The Lost Colony outdoor drama, Nags Head, Kitty Hawk, or even the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse. On the other hand, I do not recommend taxi service in Manteo, as all the local services are based on the Outer Banks. Patrons must usually pay a minimum $15 charge for a taxis to cross over to Manteo. The most popular attractions of Roanoke Island-Fort Raleigh, the Elizabethan Gardens, and the Lost Colony are located together 4 miles north of Manteo's waterfront. At Fort Raleigh and the nearby visitor center and museum, you can see the unearthed remains of the colonists' original fort. The museum paints a fascinating portrait of those early colonial days. A movie and an occasional performance of period music add to the attraction. The Elizabethan Gardens are an extravaganza of native and imported English plants. A walk through the green paths is definitely recommended for cruising boaters who have seen one too many wave. The grounds are open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. year-round. In the summer, when The Lost Colony is in production, the gardens remain open until 8 p.m. Undoubtedly, Roanoke Island's greatest tourist attraction is The Lost Colony outdoor drama, written by Pulitzer Prize-winning playwright Paul Green. The waterside theater has been playing to packed houses since 1937. The Lost Colony was the state's first outdoor drama, and it remains one of the best. The play is a moving narrative of the fortunes of Sir Walter Raleigh's ill-fated settlement. It is presented from June 15 to August 15 at 8:30 p.m. Advance reservations (which are recommended) can be obtained by writing to The Lost Colony, Box 40, Manteo, N.C. 27954. There is one other attraction on Roanoke Island worthy of every visitor's attention. While motorized transportation and directions from a friendly local are required to reach its doors, Queen Anne's Revenge (252-473-5466) may just be the best restaurant on the northern North Carolina coast. Because of the restaurant's rather out-of-the-way location in Wanchese, the management feels it must serve the best food to attract patrons. All steaks are the finest grain-fed Iowa beef, and the seafood is hand-selected daily for freshness. Do yourself a big favor and try the combination platter, either fried or broiled. Desserts, soups, and appetizers all bear the same mark of total quality. While most assuredly hazardous to the waistline, a visit to Queen Anne's Revenge is a prerequisite for any visit to Roanoke Island. Croatan and Roanoke Sounds History Since the time of early English colonization on Roanoke Island, a fascinating change in the natural character of both sounds has come about. In colonial times, what we know today as Croatan Sound was a wide marsh penetrated by a single shallow ditch. The main deepwater channel ran through Roanoke Sound from old Roanoke Inlet, which cut through the Outer Banks east of Roanoke Island. Between 1780 and approximately 1810, the old inlet shoaled and eventually closed. Apparently, the huge drainage of the Albemarle's nine rivers was then diverted southward through the marshy area. This large volume of fresh water scoured out the one-time shallow bottom, leaving the wide and deep water that is today called Croatan Sound. Conversely, the once-deep Roanoke Sound has shoaled to 3- and 4-foot depths. Over the years, considerable interest has been displayed in artificially reopening old Roanoke Inlet as a ready artery of commerce. One plan of note called for the building of dikes across the southern feet of Croatan and Roanoke Sounds to divert the Albemarle's drainage through the man-made cut. This plan may have worked, but adequate funds were never appropriated, and the ambitious project was not attempted. The Lost Colony The history of Roanoke and Croatan Sounds is inextricably interwoven with the fabled Lost Colony of Sir Walter Raleigh. Volumes have been written, and probably will yet be written, on this mysterious chapter in American history. In the late 16th century, England began an attempt to expand its influence into the New World. Sir Walter Raleigh, trusted counselor of Queen Elizabeth I, sent out an expedition in 1584 under Philip Amadas and Arthur Barlowe. In a search for appropriate sites of future colonization, they first touched the North Carolina coast in the vicinity of Hatteras and then moved north to what may have been Roanoke Inlet. The eventual report which the two explorers presented to Raleigh spoke of a land of plenty peopled by friendly and benevolent Indians. So encouraged was Sir Walter by this handsome account that he launched a colonization party of 600 men under Sir Richard Grenville in April 1585. Landfall was made near Ocracoke Inlet, but the expedition eventually moved north to Roanoke Island. A settlement, Fort Raleigh, was soon constructed on the island's northern tip. In late August, Grenville returned to England, leaving 107 men under the leadership of Ralph Lane. A professional soldier, Lane apparently had no qualms about stealing supplies from the nearby Indians. The deterioration in relations was climaxed by an English raid on the main village of the Roanoke Indians and the murder of their chief. In June 1586, Sir Francis Drake appeared off Roanoke Island and offered his aid. Perhaps goaded by the worsening situation with the Indians, Lane decided to abandon the colony. Just a few weeks later, Grenville dropped anchor nearby with three ships loaded with supplies. Finding the colonists gone, he left 15 men as a holding force and sailed again for England. Following Lane's return to England, Sir Walter Raleigh began to prepare his most ambitious effort. A large group of men, women, and children under the governorship of John White set sail for the New World in early May 1587 and arrived at Roanoke Island in July. The plan was to retrieve the 15 men left there and move on to the southern shore of Chesapeake Bay. Here is the first mystery of Raleigh's colony: Why didn't the colonists, after finding that the holding force had been slaughtered by mainland Indians, continue their voyage northward? Traditional accounts claim that the expedition's pilot, Simon Fernandez, refused to sail to the Chesapeake. Dr. David B. Quinn, perhaps the greatest authority on the Lost Colony, insists that the majority did indeed travel overland to the southern shore of the Chesapeake, where they were later massacred by the Powhatan Indians. For whatever reason, at least some of the colonists reoccupied the fort built by Lane. For a time, all was well. The settlement was refurbished, crops were planted, and Virginia Dare, the first English child born in America, was delivered of Eleanor Dare on August 18. It soon became apparent, however, that not enough supplies had been sent to meet the colonists' needs before the settlement could become self-sufficient. On August 27, John White left for England to procure the needed goods. Upon his arrival in England, White found the entire country preparing to meet the threat of the great Spanish Armada. Not even a small ship could be spared for the Roanoke colony. Finally, following Drake's brilliant victory over the Spanish, a relief force was dispatched in late August 1590, almost two years after White's return to England. The Roanoke Island fort was found abandoned. The only clue to the colony's fate was the word Croatoan, the Indian name for Hatteras, inscribed on a tree. Storms prevented further search, and the small fleet returned to England, leaving behind perhaps the most enduring mystery of American history. Many theories have been advanced to explain the disappearance of the Lost Colony. Some have claimed that hostile Indians killed the inhabitants, but no bodies were found by the relief force. Charles Harry Whedbee has advanced the idea that the colonists migrated westward to the portion of the mainland separating Croatan Sound from the Alligator River. In his fascinating tale "Beechland" in Legends of the Outer Banks, Whedbee presents intriguing evidence to support his claim. The most plausible theory, however, argues that the Roanoke Island colonists traveled south to modern-day Hatteras and lived there with the friendly Croatan Indians. The Lost Colony is remembered by an outdoor drama presented nightly during the summer months on the northern tip of Roanoke Island. This long-loved play has provided training for some fine actors, including Andy Griffith. It is fitting that the bravery and courage of those first English colonists are so well remembered. From 1984 to 1987, Roanoke Island celebrated the 400th anniversary of the Roanoke colonies. As an integral part of this celebration, a faithful replica of the Elizabeth, one of the ships that brought the members of the Lost Colony to the New World, was built in downtown Manteo. The craft was then ensconced in an innovative theme park on Ice Plant Island, just across Doughs Creek from the Manteo waterfront. Today, cruising visitors can visit the Elizabeth II by foot from the town docks. The Legend of Virginia Dare Many tall tales have evolved concerning the Lost Colony. Virginia Dare is the subject of a particularly poignant story which has many variations. According to the legend, there was an attack by hostile Indians on the Roanoke colonists. Chief Manteo, returning from a fishing expedition, saw the raid in progress. By using a secret tunnel, he was able to lead all the inhabitants safely to nearby canoes. An all-night trip down the Pamlico brought the group to Manteo's village at Hatteras. There, the colonists were accepted into the tribe as brothers and sisters. The fair-skinned, blond Virginia Dare was from the beginning a wonder to the Indians. As she grew in stature and years, many braves paid court for her hand in marriage. The fair girl loved all the people, both Indians and white, but was not yet ready to choose a mate. Chico, the tribal medicine man, was greatly smitten by the maiden's charms. Though Virginia was kind to him, it was clear that Chico's ardor was not being returned. Finally, in a fit of passion, he vowed that if she would not marry him, she would have no man. Calling upon the power of the sea nymphs, Chico lured Virginia to Roanoke Island. Stepping ashore, she assumed the form of a snow-white deer. Soon, it was whispered that a white doe was the leader of all the deer of Roanoke Island. Wherever the remarkable creature went, all others followed. Many great hunters tried to slay the mystical creature, but no arrow seemed to find a mark. As time went by, the white doe became a legend as well as a challenge. Finally, a great hunt was organized, and all the young braves of noble blood vowed their efforts. Many prizes and honors were to be awarded the victor. Young Wanchese, son of Chief Wanchese, who had traveled to England, had a silver-tipped arrow presented to his father by Queen Elizabeth. He believed it had magical powers and would bring him the quarry he sought. As fate would have it, Wanchese did indeed sight the snow-white doe. Taking careful aim, he loosed his deadly missile. The silver tip succeeded where all others had failed, and the deer fell to the ground. The young brave rushed forward to claim his prize, but all joy fled as he heard the deer whisper with her last breath, faint but clear, the words "Virginia Dare." Fanciful it may be, but this tale has survived in one form or another since the earliest recorded history of North Carolina. |
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